Green Goddess Dressing

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Green Goddess Dressing originates from the famed Palace Hotel, in San Francisco.  In 1923,  Philip Roemer (the hotel's chef) wanted to create something to pay tribute to actor George Arliss and the play, The Green Goddess.  Roemer then concocted the dressing, which, like the play, became a tremendous hit. 

The dressing is a variation of a dressing originated in France by a chef to Louis XIII who made a sauce au vert (green sauce), which was traditionally served with "green eel."

Green Goddess Dressing was a favorite of mine when I was a child.  It was popular in the 1970s, into the early 1980s, and has all but disappeared from stores.  In addition to the dressing's scarcity, I have become decreasingly less impressed with store bought dressings, as they have a weird gelatinous texture, that is not a substitute for creaminess.  This is my version of the San Francisco classic, which is very simple to make.


Skill level:

Ingredients

• 1 cup mayonnaise

• 1/2 cup sour cream

• 1/3 cup fresh chives (loosely packed)

• 1/3 cup fresh parsley (loosely packed)

• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Preparation

1.  Place chives and parsley into a food processor, and pulse two to three times, until coarsely chopped. 
 
2.  Add mayonnaise and sour cream, and pulse until ingredients are combined

3.  Add all remaining ingredients, and pulse until the mixture is smooth, with a greenish color, and small amounts of the fresh herbs are still visible.

4.  Refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.

Hazelnut-Almond Dacquoise

Hazelnut-Almond Dacquoise

Recipe by Joanne Chang, Flour Bakery + Café, Boston
Skill level:
I am giving this a difficult rating, as the meringues can be fragile, many cooking tools are required, and the long prep time.  While this French cake is a lot of work, it is one of the best desserts I have ever had, and well worth the time to make! 

Serves 10-12

Makes one 10-inch-long rectangular cake

Joanne Chang says, in her cookbook Flour, "Most of the offerings at Flour Bakery + Cafe are decidedly American: chocolate chip cookies, banana bread, puddings, and muffins. But when I wrote the opening menu, I knew I wanted to include this very French cake. I really like how dramatic it looks and how well all of the flavors and textures go together. Dacquoise refers to both the baked meringue layers within the cake and the composed cake itself. First, you make a light meringue and quickly and gently fold in hazelnut and almond flour. Then you pipe three long rectangles of the meringue onto a baking sheet and bake them in a slow oven overnight, so they dry out and get crispy. A creamy espresso buttercream that tastes like soft coffee ice cream and a chocolate ganache filling are sandwiched between the layers. The cake is not difficult to make, but all of its components make it important to read the recipe from start to finish so you can organize your prep schedule. Each component can be made in advance, which makes the final assembly of the cake easier."

Ingredients

For the cake

1/2 cup blanched whole hazelnuts, plus 3/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted

1/2 cup blanched whole almonds, plus 1/4 cup blanched whole hazelnuts, toasted

1-1/3 cups confectioners’ sugar

1/8 tsp. kosher salt

6 egg whites

1/3 cup granulated sugar

For the bittersweet chocolate ganache

1 lb.-semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

2 cups heavy cream

For the espresso buttercream

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup water

2 eggs

1 egg yolk

1-1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 2-inch chunks

1 Tbs. instant espresso powder, 2 Tbs. instant coffee powder, or 1/4 cup cooled brewed espresso

1/4 tsp. kosher salt

Preparation

To make the meringue 

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 225°F. 
2. Line an 18 by 13-inch baking sheet (if you don’t have a sheet that large, line 2 smaller sheets) with parchment paper. Draw three 10 by 3 inch rectangles at least 3 inches apart on one side of the parchment paper, then turn the parchment over and liberally coat the other side of the paper with nonstick cooking spray or butter.
   
   
3. In a food processor, pulse the 1/2 cup hazelnuts until ground to a fine powder. (Stop grinding once they are powdery; if you continue, they will become a paste.)
   
   
4. Transfer to a medium bowl. Repeat with the 1/2 cup almonds, and add the ground almonds to the hazelnuts. Sift the confectioners’ sugar into the bowl holding the ground nuts. Add the salt and stir with a rubber spatula until all of the ingredients are well mixed.
   
   
5. Using a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they hold soft peaks. (This will take 6 to 7 minutes with a handheld mixer.) The whites will start to froth and turn into bubbles, and eventually the yellowy viscous part will disappear. Keep whipping until you can see the tines of your whip leaving a slight trail in the whites. To test for the soft-peak stage, stop the mixer and lift the whip out of the whites; the whites should peak and then droop.
   
   
   
   
6. On medium speed, add the granulated sugar in three equal additions, mixing for 30 seconds after each addition. When all of the granulated sugar has been incorporated, increase the speed to high and beat for about 15 seconds longer. The meringue should be slightly glossy and white and somewhat stiff. Scrape the meringue into a large bowl.
7. Sprinkle the nut-sugar mixture on top of the meringue. Working quickly and gently, use a rubber spatula to fold the nuts into the meringue, scraping the sides of the bowl to catch any loose nuts. The final consistency will be soupy, gloupy, and puddingy.
8. Fit a pastry bag with a 1/2 inch round plain tip and fill the bag with the meringue. Following the guidelines you drew on the underside of the parchment paper, pipe 3 rectangles of meringue, “fill in” the rectangles to form your individual layers. Space the rectangles about 3 inches apart (they will expand in the oven).
   

   

   Piping the meringue does not have to be too pretty...

   
   
   

   

   ...just smooth out the meringue using a rubber scraper.

9. Bake for about 3 hours, or until the dacquoise rectangles are firm to the touch. Turn off the oven and leave the rectangles in the closed oven for at least 6 hours or for up to 12 hours.


To make the chocolate ganache
10. Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, scald the cream over medium-high heat (bubbles start to form around the edge of the pan, but the cream is not boiling). Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for about 1 minute, then slowly whisk the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is smooth. You should have about 4 cups. Let cool, cover, and store at room temperature for up to overnight. (The ganache can be made up to 1 week in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Remove it from the refrigerator 1 day before using.)



To make the buttercream
11. In a small saucepan, stir together the granulated sugar and water. Place the pan over high heat, bring to a boil, and cook, without stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the syrup registers 238°F on a candy thermometer (the soft-ball stage). Meanwhile, fit the stand mixer with the whip attachment (or use a handheld mixer) and beat together the eggs and egg yolk on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until pale and light.
12. When the syrup is ready, remove from the heat. On low speed, slowly add the syrup into the eggs, drizzling it down the side of the bowl to keep it from hitting the whip and spattering. Turn the speed up to medium and whip for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture turns light and fluffy, is pale, and is cool to the touch. Turn the speed down to low and add the butter, a few chunks as a time. Increase the speed to medium and continue to whip for 4 to 5 minutes. The mixture will break and look curdled at first, but don’t worry. It will soon become smooth and silky.
    
    
13. Add the espresso powder and salt and whip until completely combined. You should have about 3 cups. Use within 30 minutes, or cover and leave at room temperature for up to 8 hours, and then beat vigorously with a wood spoon until smooth before using. (Or, transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, then bring to room temperature and beat with the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment for a few minutes until smooth before using.)
    


To assemble the cake
14. When the dacquoise rectangles are ready, carefully peel them from the parchment paper. 

    

    I stack all three of the dacquoise rectangles together,
    and trim them to be the same size with an electric knife.

    Using a small paring knife or a small, serrated knife, trim the edges so they are even and the rectangles are all about the same size. The rectangles are fairly delicate at this point, and if you are not careful, they could shatter. The best way to avoid this is to shave off a little piece at a time until the rectangles are roughly uniform. If a rectangle shatters as you are trimming it, don’t fret. That rectangle can be the middle layer. If 2 or all 3 rectangles shatter, again don’t fret. You can piece them together as you assemble the cake. The cake will not be quite as neat, but the final product will taste the same.
15. Cut a piece of cardboard the size of the dacquoise rectangles and place one rectangle on the cardboard. 
16. Fit a pastry bag fitted with the 1/2-inch round plain tip and fill with about half of the ganache. Pipe a layer of ganache about 1/2 inch thick on top of the dacquoise. 



I usually do not bother with the piping, I just spread half of the ganache on the first dacquoise.
Note: Make sure the ganache is at room temperature, and to not press hard, or you will crush the meringue.



After I have applied the ganache, I smooth it to a nice, even layer.

17. Gently press a second dacquoise rectangle directly on top of the ganache layer and press lightly to adhere the dacquoise to the ganache. Fill the pastry bag with about two-thirds of the espresso buttercream and pipe a layer of buttercream about 1/2 inch thick on top of the second dacquoise layer.

18. Top the buttercream with the last dacquoise rectangle, placing it upside down so the flat side is on top. Press lightly to adhere this last rectangle to the buttercream.
    
    
19. Use a small offset spatula to spread the remaining buttercream into the gaps between the layers and to spread a very thin layer all over the dacquoise. Do your best to make the exterior of the cake as smooth as you can—you will need to use a fair amount of buttercream to fill in all the gaps.
    
    
    
20. Place the cake in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to chill all of the layers. (At this point, the cake can be well wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. If frozen, thaw overnight in the refrigerator before serving.)
21. When ready to serve, spoon the remaining ganache into a small heatproof bowl, place over (not touching) simmering water in a saucepan, and heat just until melted. (Or, place in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on low power for 30 to 45 seconds, or just until melted and warmed enough to pour freely—not warmer than that.) Place a wire rack on a baking sheet (to catch the drips), and place the cake on the rack. Pour the melted ganache evenly over the entire dacquoise, so it covers the top and drips down the sides. Use a small offset spatula to level off the ganache on the top of the cake. Then, with the spatula, spread the ganache that drips down the sides so that it covers the sides evenly. Some of the ganache may mix into the buttercream, which is okay, because the sides will be covered with sliced almonds. Now, press the sliced almonds into the sides of the cake, covering them completely. (It helps to tilt the cake with one hand and press the almonds with your other hand.) Place the cake on a cake plate, and press the whole hazelnuts along the top edge for decoration.
    

The cake can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Chez Panisse, the famed Berkeley eatery, to reopen June 21!

Years ago, I had lunch at Chez Panisse while visiting my sister, who was at the time, attending UC Berkeley. I have to say, while I do not remember what I had at the time, I do recall that it was one of the best lunches I have ever had.

The restaurant features a French menu, using local organic ingredients, and is credited with being the inspiration of the California Cuisine style of cooking. Alice Walker (owner) is known for using only the finest ingredients, with a menu that changes daily, as well as seasonally. 

In 2012, the restaurant was ranked in the top 100 of the Elite Traveler World's Top Restaurants Guide, and Restaurant Magazine has consistently placed it among the top 20 restaurants in the world, ranking as high as 12th in 2003.

On March 8, 2013, the restaurant, a Berkeley institution since 1971,  burned down, and many foodies (including myself) thought that an era of exceptional and reasonably affordable California Cuisine was over.

Walker, in an interview with The New York Times stated, "The very beautiful facade of the restaurant is gone. The fire started under the front porch, and it just burned the whole front porch off. We were very lucky that it happened in the middle of the night and that no one was there. But it’s gone."

In the article, she also said that she was already planning to reopen, but, with many restauranteurs, that dream seldom comes to fruition, as starting over is both costly and devastating.

Today, May 23, 2013, Mercury News (Silicon Valley) announces that restaurant will reopen on June 21. Congratulations to Ms. Walker, as I look forward to many more years of Chez Panisse, and I am curious to see what you will bring to the restaurant's newest chapter.

Mercury News Article: http://www.mercurynews.com/business/ci_23308212/chez-panisse-reopen-2-500-dinner

Cinnamon Palmiers

Skill level: 

These are not difficult to make, the repeated refrigeration cycles create a long prep time.

Ingredients

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, frozen

5 to 6 tablespoons ice water

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

Preparation

1. Stir together flour and salt in a chilled large metal bowl. Slice frozen butter into flour, gently tossing to coat butter.

2. Place butter and flour mixture in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
3. Remove flour and butter mixture from the refrigerator, and using a pastry blender, break the butter into large chunks.

4. Drizzle 5 tablespoons ice water evenly over flour mixture and gently stir with a fork until incorporated. Test mixture by gently squeezing a small handful: When dough has the proper texture, it will hold together without crumbling apart. If necessary, add another tablespoon water, stirring until just incorporated, and test again. (Do not overwork dough or add too much water, or pastry will be tough; dough will be lumpy and streaky.)  Note: I usually just work the bough with my hands, it is easier.

5. Form dough into a 5-inch square, then chill, wrapped in plastic wrap, until firm, at least 30 minutes.

6. Roll out dough on a floured surface with a floured rolling pin into a 15 by 8  inch rectangle (with a short side nearest you). Brush off excess flour and fold dough into thirds like a letter. Rewrap dough and chill until firm, at least 30 minutes.

7. Arrange dough with a short side nearest you on a floured surface and repeat rolling out, folding, and chilling 2 more times. Brush off any excess flour, then halve dough crosswise with a sharp knife and chill, wrapped separately in plastic wrap, at least 1 hour.
8. Stir together sugar and cinnamon, then generously sprinkle a clean work surface with some of cinnamon sugar and place 1 piece of chilled dough on top.

9. Quickly roll out into a 16 by 12-inch rectangle (1/8 to 1/16 inch thick; if dough becomes too soft, chill on a baking sheet until firm). Trim edges with a sharp knife. Sprinkle top of dough evenly with some cinnamon sugar to cover completely, brushing off any excess. 

10. Fold 2 opposite long sides of pastry so they meet in center. Fold in same sides of pastry in same manner, then fold one half over the other (like a book) and press gently with a rolling pin to flatten slightly, forming a long rectangular log. Sprinkle with additional cinnamon sugar if dough is sticky.

11. Chill on a baking sheet, uncovered, until firm, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. Meanwhile, repeat with remaining piece of dough and cinnamon sugar.
12. Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in middle. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
13. Cut 1 log of dough crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices with a sharp knife and arrange slices, cut sides down, 1 1/2 inches apart on baking sheet. 

14. Bake until puffed and golden around edges, 7 to 9 minutes. Remove from oven and turn palmiers over with a spatula. (If palmiers begin to unroll, gently press to reshape when cooled slightly.) Continue baking until golden all over and sugar is caramelized, 3 to 5 minutes more. 
15. Transfer as done (palmiers may not bake evenly) to a rack and cool. Make more cookies on cooled baking sheet lined with fresh parchment.

Apple & Almond Galette

A galette is a rustic French term, used to describe various flat, round, free-form crusty tarts and cakes that are cooked on a baking sheet rather than in a pan.

Apple & Almond Galette

Skill level:

Serves 8

Ingredients

For the dough

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon. salt
1 tablespoon. sugar
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/3 to 1/2 cup ice water

For the filling

2 pounds apples, such as Granny Smith or Jonagold, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1/2 cup sliced almonds

1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon. ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon. freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon. salt
1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 egg
1 tablespoon of milk
Sugar for sprinkling

Optional

1/4 cup apricot jam (pear also works well)
Lightly sweetened whipped cream for serving

Preparation

1. To make the dough, put the flour, salt and sugar in a bowl. Put the butter in another bowl and place both bowls in the freezer for 10 minutes.
2. Transfer the flour mixture to a food processor and pulse about 5 times to blend. Add the butter and pulse 15 to 20 times, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 1/3 cup of the water and pulse twice. Squeeze the dough with your fingers; it should hold together but should not be sticky. If it is crumbly, add more water 1 Tbs. at a time, pulsing twice after each addition.
3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, gather into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
4. Place a baking sheet on the bottom rack of an oven (this will catch any run-off). Position another rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 400°F. 
5. Line a second baking sheet with a Silpat nonstick liner and spray with nonstick cooking spray. (I usually use a large, round cooking stone or a baking sheet, always lined with parchment paper).
6. Peel, core, and remove the stems from the apples, then gut into 1/4 inch thick pieces.



Peeled apples.



A mellon baller is a handy
tool for coring apples.



Cut away stems and bottoms.



Cut into irregular, 1/4 inch thick slices.

7. To make the filling, in a large bowl, stir together the apples, sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and cornstarch. Set aside.



Simply add sugar, spices, and lemon juice, all at once.



8. Brown the almonds in a shallow pan, or in the oven while it is warming.



Almonds being browned in a skillet.



Browned almonds, ready to add to the mix.



9. Add the browned almonds to the apple mixture, and stit to combine.



Add the almonds to the apple mix, and stir to combine.

10. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let stand for 5 minutes. 
11. Place the dough between 2 sheets of lightly floured waxed paper and roll out into a 12-inch round. Brush off the excess flour. 
12. If edges of the round are jagged, which mine often are, use your hands to press edges into a round shape.



Rounding rough dough edges by hand.

13. Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet. 
14. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
15. Combine the egg and milk, lightly whipping until smooth, and eggs are not "streaky."
16. Using a brush, thinly coat the dough round with the egg and milk mixture.  (Some of the egg and milk will be left over for use in Step 18).
    

    

    Egg and milk, ready to coat the pastry.

    

    I like to use a silicone brush to coat the pastry.

17. Arrange the apple filling in the center of the dough, mounding the fruit slightly and leaving a 2 inch border. 



Pile filling on the pastry dough, leaving a 2
inch border all of the way around.



18. Gently fold the edges of the dough over the apples, pleating loosely. Brush the dough with the beaten egg. Lightly sprinkle sugar over the apples.



Dough edges pushed up to make a rustic shell.



19. Brush outside of galette with the egg and milk mixture.



Brush outside of shell with egg & milk mixture.
This will give the shell a nice glossy look
when it is baked.



20. Bake until the crust is golden and the apples are tender, about 1 hour. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the galette cool completely, about 1 hour.
21. Optional: Just before serving, in a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the jam.  Brush the apples with the jam and let cool. When cut, and ready to serve, accompany each slice with a dollop of whipped cream.